Twenty days and 22,000 miles. A trip of a lifetime, a scavenger hunt, a chance to get back into my body again after two years in my mind. It all started when I got a phone call from Pamela FInmark, co-founder of the Great Escape Foundation, asking if I'd like to fill a cancelled space and go on a round the world trip for charity with a group of strangers, to places yet to be defined. The whole point of the trip was to 'trust strangers in strange lands' and to solve scavengers and puzzles and the itinerary unfolded city by city. We really didn't know where we were going from day to day - it was incredible.
I kept a travel blog and took thousands of pictures...here is the link http://travelsite.mytripjournal.com/margaretmanning
The day to day journal is here:
April 5th - Seattle, Washington
On April 15th, I leave LA for a journey around the world for charity! The Great Escape Foundation which supports great causes like Doctors without Borders,UNICEF, Mercy Corps and CARE, is sponsoring my "Blind Date with the World". I don't know where I will be going from day to day, but this global scavenger hunt will take me to at least ten different countries across four continents. At each destination I solve travel riddles, cultural clues and cryptic passages, leading me and my teammate to Lost Cities, sacred sites, cultural festivals, bustling bazaars, ancient ruins and exotic eateries. All I know is that we will visit China and India since I had to secure visas in advance.
April 15th, Seattle, WA
Seattle sky is blue grey and rain on the way. What's new? My house is incredibly still, almost unreal with my two chihuahuas Sky and Chica tucked safely away at the Downtown Dog Lounge, an "urban retreat" for dogs as it is marketed. Between "yappy hours" (I kid you not) and "chihuhua fiestas" every month, they have been promised pride of place in the "anxiety room" reserved for little dogs whose owners decide to leave them for 3 weeks and go spinning round the world on a blind date - Seattle to Los Angeles is where I find myself teetering today. Alaska flight something, leaves at 10 am. I think I am going to have to get better at remembering flight numbers but this one is on familiar ground. Nervous, excited, ready to go~ I feel like I am getting back into my senses after 2 years of living in my mind and memories. Good to feel that tingle of fear as I embark on the unknown~
Hong Kong
LA was our launching pad. Full day at the Getty Museum where we did our first round of scavenges - an incredible place full of amazin manuscripts, precious art and stunning architecture. Labyrinths and cactii I learned a lot and met the other folks on the trip. Small group but fun, well travelled eccentrics all of them. Dinner at the Typoon restaurant complete with crickets and ants (fried) to get our palettes ready for what is to come.
At midnight we left for Hong Kong - 7231 miles and almost 15 hours in the air. It was a good flight. Time to settle down, get ready for the days ahead. Its 75 degrees, warm mist over the city. We are at the Island ShangriLa - beautiful hotel mear Pacific Mall and with a 16 story silk mural adorning the hotel lobby wall. QUite amazing. More later
China
Very quick update because its 2am and I'm shattered.We went by train to Shenzhen to this incredibly funky Chinese amusement park called Windows on the World ..like Disneyland and Epcot and Legoland with miniature reproductions of all the famous buildings in the world - really well done, but incredibly wierd to see a little miniature New York complete with intact World Trade Center Towers alongside the Taj Mahal and the Great Pyramids. It was warm around 80 degrees and we bought colorful umbrellas to keep out the sun - but they ended up being fun photo props (see attached). THen we took a train to Gunagdong on the chinese mainland looking for markets that sold cryptic medicines and herbs and live scorpions, turtles, fish, quail and totally unidentifiable things as well. Very long day, irrate taxi drivers, great food, beautiful vistas, train delays, surly customs men and woman- the typical things that make travel so much fun. More later...we leave tomorrow at 10pm for the next stop...India???
India
We leave at 10.55 tonight for New Delhi - Cathay Pacific,staying at the Oberoi...that's all I know :-) Have spent the last 12 hours running around HOng Kong like a maniac. More later when I have a second to breathe. Off to dinner and then the airport. I LOVE HOng Kong - want to come back soon - bet I'll say that another 9 times between now and May 8th....so many wonderful pictures today - children, pandas, skylines - strangers in a strange land. We havea free day on Sunday so I am planning to try to upload a few. Its been incredibly hot here in India - up in the high 90's so we are moving with extreme effort through our list of fabulous scavenges. Its pretty gruelling.
I have been to India several times, so this leg has an element of deja vu - but I am always carried away by the incredible passion and power of this country. People are just wonderful - truly generous and good hearted. We spent our first day in Delhi weaving through Chandi Chowk market trying to find Indian sweets, only to be turned back because of a collapsing building. Our rickshaw drivers were more upset than I us I am sure -we had them wanting us to win! The rest of the day was driving and walking anbd photographing Delhi's famous landmarks - India Gate, Parliament, Red Fort, Quatab Minar, - so much incredible architecture - almost overwhelming. The heat is the one and only challenge, and most of our team now have colds - but we go on :-)
Agra
Yesterday morning, we left Delhi at 5.45 am for Agra. The train is not luxury, but very comfortable and the tea was pretty amazing. Served in a little clay cup- an answer to the proliferation to plastic cups. The journey was filled with mapping out the plans for our next two days in Agra and Rajastan. We started of course at the Taj Mahal. Breathtaking. There are no words. Pictures, memories, I wandered around remembering other trips and feeling a deep sense of connection to this place. I have always absolutely adored India. One day I hope to live here.
It was so hot by now, by skin was peeling so we jumped in a taxi and went to the Keoladeo Nature Reserve and Bird Sanctuary and had the most amazing time weaving in a richshaw through the forest looking for birds and jackals and birds of all kinds - cranes, kingfishers, turtles, - it was really cool - actually hot, but we drank tons of water and managed to survive. The rest of the 3 hour drive to Jaipur was punctuated as you can imagine with road works, goats in the road, camel drawn wagons loaded up to the gills, and lorries with signs that said Blow Horn - and they did!!
Jaipur
We arrived in Jaipur last night and my dear friend Veena was here to meet me. It was so lovely to see her. She was in pink and looked just beautiful - like an oasis after a dust storm. Jaipur is fabulous and we are staying at the Trident Hotel - nothing as fancy as the RajVilas where we normally stayed as a family on our trips - but nice - just opposite the Jaipur Water Palace which is a special place for me.
So today - we "do" Jaipur - Amber Fort with the lovely Shesh Mahal (a chamber with beautiful mirrors on teh ceiling that reflect with the light of a match - magical), City Palace Museum, Palace, Baudi Chauper, Jantar Mantar Observatory, etc. We have a ton of scavenges to do - so more later.
Jaipur, the Pink City - always stunning. Always like going home. We arrived from Jaipur after a drive that really allows you to appreciate our roads back home - because absolutely nothing can be worse than the road from Agra to Jaipur. The hotel manager at the Oberoi told us (bobbing his head left to right) that "no problems' the road was very smooth. Now this must be a defintion of smooth that Iam not acquainted with :-) Boulders in the road, construction underway, people, camels, rickshaws, children playing in the caked mud roads, women carrying water bottles, milk, garbage, big bunches of grass, street stalls tumbling over with fresh fruit - banana yellow and lime green light - a blur as we whizzed by in our air conditioned taxi. Our driver spoke very little English, but like everyone in India, nothing is too much trouble. They are astounding. So we arrived in Jaipur around 10pm and my dear friend Veena was there to meet us. I have known her for years since my early trips to India with my family and my business Passion for India. She helped to source textiles, and we have truly been through a lot together - another story. Many many memories here - almost too much for me to deal with at times. We normally stayed at Raj Vilas - but this time the Trident - basic and clean.
The time in Jaipur was a bit of a blur - the scavenges led us to an elephant ride at the Amber Palace, with the spectacular Sheesh Mahal - a room of glass mosaic that shimmers when a candle is lit, the Palace of Winds - a beautiful facade for the maharajas wives to view processions, Jantar Mantar, the spectacular observatory around 1700 I believe, we went to the Maharajas cenotaphs, a collection of small marble buildings - Gaitor I think it was called. Then to the City Museum where artisans are now able to show there wares - there is a very progressive Maharaja in Jaipur today - interesting he is the 39th generation of maharajas - but did not have a son - his daughter to complicate things married a non Indian (shock) but they had a son who the kind adopted in order to have a son to carry on the lineage. Very interesting.
The market visit was amazing. Imagine 110 degree weather looking for bindis and bangles and shawls and shoes, pottery and kohl. We finally made it on time to the station where we caught the 5.45 train back to Delhi - 4 hours punctuated by little food trays - on the hour for 4 hours. First tea and cookies, then soup and crackers,then full dinner, then dessert - and this was in coach! All great food believe it or not.
The train station at 11pm was typical Indian madnesss - hardly an inch between cars, much honking, screaming, the sounds and smells overwhelming. My teammates for this trip were Trevor from Seattle - and incredible young guy who inherited some money when his mother sadly died in an accident when he was only 14 - you can't imagine a more sensitive, intelligent, thoughtful person - and he could have gone in so many other directions. Deborah is from San Francisco - she has two young boys 12 adn 9 I think - she is a hoot - I still can't read her face - she is sterm looking but loving. She is my roomate - talk about getting to know strangers in a strange land. Melissa is about Trevor's age - she is a musician (violin) from Toronto. She is struggling with her own paradigms, this is truly a trip for transformation.
Oh yes, did I mention I have a bad cold?:-) Today we finish our Delhi scavenges and then off to ?
Delhi
Last full day in Delhi - many scavanges to unravel and places to visit. We hired a taxi driver who spoke great English - without the subtleties of culture - but he knew a hell lot more English than I know Hindi (my skills amount to namaste, dhanyavad, ek chai and nai). So first to the Janna Mishad (sp?) a beautiful old mosque in a very poor neighborhood. Mosques are always a little strange for me because I do not totally understand the religion or the context - so we enjoyed the architecture and sense of peace. Looking for alto sax's in an Indian music store brought amused smiles. Ghandi Museum was next - and of course the RajGhat where he, Indira and Rajiv Ghandi are also buried. Kennedyesque. Lots of school kids, good tradition. My favorite stop was the National Museum. We had to find an illustration of Lord Krisha stealing the clothes of the Gopis - and of course it was no where to be found. After 30 minutes of searching, we discovered it was in fact in a book which was kept behind lock and key in the office of one of the professors who worked there. He turned out to be a wily, toothless little man with bouncing energy and an infectious smile. He showed us the book giggling all the time - explainging that most people take it the wrong way because the gopis are naked - but that its all about god and the love of the divine. He was so sweet and even let us take pictures of this miniature book.
Then we went down to the canteen in the museum and for 16 rupees which is around 30 cents, Deborah and I had a full lunch - veg curry, dahl, rice, puri and chai. 15 cents each. And it was delicious as well!!!!
Then to Quatar Mintar - the tallest mintar in India - built on the site of a Hindu complex it was a real hodge podge of architectural design. Really pretty and really hot. Got up to around 100 again yesterday. Then Dilli Haat Market where I sucumbed and bought a small Rajastan puppet with the wierdet face and a cotton top. Oh yes, some bindis too. Last night we had dinner at the Sheraton - Baracca Restaurant - supposed to be one of the best. The food was ok. I had a terrible cold so the the chef's efforts were wasted on me.
Good sleep - massage and manicure this morning, ice coffee by the pool, email and letters, journal and newspaper and then I am off again in 6 hours to who knows where...
Dubai
Quick 8 hours - saw so much - rode a camel, swam in the Arabian Sea (well dipped my feet :-) lots of s-h-o-p-p-i-n-g (hard to avoid) and saw the sites - mosque, fabulous vistas, - much more later - but I am off to Cairo!!!
Started the morning on the beach - at the Ritz Carlton where I had stayed a few years ago in another lifetime - wandered the beach until I found camels to ride. The beach was white glowing sand - in the high 90's the blue and white beach chairs looked lonely. There were actually very few people on the beach, probably because of the sadhu like torture you had to undertake to manuever across the hot plates of sand. Still undetered the intrepid travelers scavenged on, catching the hotel bus into town to the Gold and Spice souks (markets) buying bracelets and cinammon and checking out the prices for mysterious chunks of gooey stone, frankensense, myrrh, mysterious flowers of the desert.
Lunch across in an abba (sp?) boat and lunch and another sheeshwa (pipe) getting to be a real professional smoker here - I had better stop soon :-) An assortment of pastries and sweets and fantastic coffee rounded off the morning. The afternoon was spent visiting hotels underconstruction - "The World" is a new development - a series of manmade islands that represent all teh countries in the world, and which will be built off the coast of Dubai along with the Palms an equally extravagant island construction . Does the phrase "otentatious display of surperfluous wealth" come to mind :-) Seriously, I'm just jealous ....
Egypt
Unbelievable. Have never been to Egypt so this is an incredible, special treat.
I just cannot describe the SCALE of the pyramids - just astounding and magical. We went to the sound and light show last night - very British Raj. Today we are off to another one of the seven wonders of the world - Alexandria - where the famous library is...its right on teh Mediteranean so should be a lovely day. There was tons of security in Cairo yesterday because Mubarek and Putin were in town - but we had a great time in the bazaar, smoking hookahs (apple tobacco of course) and running around the museum, boat trip on the Nile etc. Felt like an Egyptian princess. The Oberoi where we are staying overlooks teh pyramids - tonight off to Sufi dancing and then a camel ride to the Pyramids tomorrow - also to Memphis - not Tennesee - much more and pictures later - its 4am and I am off to catch a train :-)
I have fallen in love with Camels. We went off yesterday to the pyramids on camel-back. My little one was Whiskey who was just the most adorable thing. That perspectgive on the Pyramids is quite astounding. There are no words as you approach the three amazing structures looming above - 5000 years old - just amazing. The saying is that "man fears time, but time fears the pyramids' and I can see why. There is an intensity in the air that is almost palpable. I love the desert, the wind, the smells, the rugged sense of space. I would love to do a desert tour one day - sleeping under the desert sky. Another time.
On to Istanbul - we arrive at 6am for a day of scavenges - hoping for a Turkish bath or two.
Istanbul
Arrived at 6am - Turkish Air flight that left Cairo at 4am. Very bumpy, very crowded, very old plane, very scared :-) Seriously we made it - beautiful Swiss Hotel which is coincidentally where I stayed almost exactly 2 years ago when I was here on my own. What's that saying by TS ELiot - "We shall not cease from exploration and at the end of all our exploring, we find ourselves back where we started, but know the place for the first time". True.
Off for the day of scavenges. Its raining, no more than 60 degrees, just a little different than Cairo.....will be a fun day though...more later with pics
Prague
Arrived in Prague yesterday mid day. Istanbul was fabulous, I really love that city. It was May 1st (May Day) so we were expecting demonstrations for European Labor Day. After the bombings in Cairo that happened just a day after we left, I felt very aware of the tenuous peace in the world and how carefree we have been in walking up to total strangers, asking for help, trusting in their kindness. We went to Hagia Sofia in the morning, a drizzly day that transformed into a blue sky, bright light kind of day as we came out. The crowds of tourists in Istanbul were very noticeable, not many American or even British accents - lots of German, French and Italian visitors. Sofia is a magnificant structure - still under construction inside - but the stunning peace of the place is awe inspiring. Dashing to the Cistern (1001 columns underground) and a few last minute scavenges, we headed off to the Dolmache (spelling is wrong sorry) Palace right near the Swiss Hotel - apparantly there were politicians from Iraq and other Middle East countries visiting, so security was iron tight, and we just managed to squeeze a few pictures before being directed away by police carrying machine guns, very big machine guns.
So, off to the airport and Prague. I was here almost exactly a year ago - fulfilling a dream then. Again, its sheer magic and architectural beauty stuns me every time. We had dinner in a cool restaurant in the Castle Grounds (specialty being suckling pig and vienna schnitzel (god my spelling is bad! :-)) We talked as a team for hours, drank and enjoyed a relaxing night. The team is small - only 11 people I think - and they are all total characters in one way or another. More later but for now, I am happy that I met each and every one of them - all added something to my life and in some cases shone a mirror of what I want to be and others what I don't ever want to become. So..the journey was as much about my own growth - travel always is.
Parting Ways in Prague
This morning the teams left on their European scavenges which will take them by train to Krakow, Poland, Vienna, Austria and finally Budapest before they head to NYC on Friday. I am off to London to meet up with my two sons Nathan and James and then to go with them to Dubrovnik, Croatia for the last week of my vacation. Nathan is already in London, James is winging his way from Fukoaka, Japan where he has been with his new girlfriend Yuko for the past month. He is living in Scotland now and since I haven't seen him in several months, it will be just wonderful to be together for 5 days as a family.
Will post lots of pictures - right now I am in the airport lounge stealing internet time :-) on a shared computer. Flying Easy Jet to Gatwick - hope the wings stay on....
Dubrovnik, Croatia
Today I am in Dubrovnik, with my sons Nathan and James. Had a prior arrangement with the global scavenger hunt team that I would leave them in Prague to go take this special trip with my sons. It was so great to be all together as a family again since its been almost three years since we have had this opportunity and almost 5 months since James moved to Scotland. They are both doing incredibly well after the challenges of the past couple of years, life is once again fully enegergising us all with postitive dreams and energy. So Dubrovnik, a medieval walled city that takes your breath away. They call it Bath of the Balkans a really pristine jewel, clean sparkling and full of tourists...not many from the states but lots of Brits, Germans and Italians. The town is entirelz yellow limestone, the roofs teracotta. The architecture is spectacularlz medieval, apparantly a lot rebuilt after a dramatic earthquake in the 1600s. We are staying at teh Excelsior hotel in the Bernard Shaw suite ' not sure if teh great man ever stayed here, but it overlooks the sea wall and has two balconies that are perfect for late night coffee and viewing.
In town the main street Placa is known as the Stradum and is a beautiful wide promenade littered with little cafes and wandering visitors. The pavement is polished marble and slipppery and shiny in the sun which has been shining since we arrived. There is a 17th century cathedral and museums, churches and steep alleys that creep up from the main plaza, tree lined and incrediblz scenic. Across from our room with a view is Lokrum, a wooded island - uninhabited I believe except for a Benedictine monestary. The brochure says it is covered with pines and peacocks and a nudistik beach - on the schedule for sure. We hope to go to the island of Hvar which we are told is spectacular as well as Korkula, a nearby island which is the birthplace of Marco Polo. So much history here, and incredible beauty. The war with Yuogoslavia in the earlz 90s is a memory now and tourism is returning. I know I will..